We recently checked in with our Australian Creator & Innovator Zak Condon after a trip to a magical island to chase swell. Here's what he had to say about the trip and some photos to prove it.
"The trip came about really quickly. We booked everything 2 days before when we saw the swell. It was a real strike mission! Myself and my younger brother Luke have been talking with Shannon Mackie (filmer) and Georde Grigor (photog) since mid-summer about all being ready to just go if we see a swell as we loved the look of the place. The trip went sick. We only went for two days. When we first got to the wave we were wigging out as there was no one out and it was pumping. The first morning was super fun with some big long open lefts! Luke and I had to pinch our selves a few times because we couldn’t believe it was just us out and just shan and griggs on the beach! I got pretty belted on one double up when it was getting super low and sketchy and tweaked my back pretty bad about 4 hours into the first session which was pretty shitty. We had some lunch and went straight back out, it had dropped a foot or two but was doing its thing more with some really hollow peaks. When it all cooled down I was pretty sore that night and have only just hopped back in the water this week. The next day it had fully dropped and was like 1-2ft. We checked a whole heap of different zones and cool set ups but we didn’t even surf. We went on a full adventure day around the island and got some pretty cool lifestyle stuff! The place is so rad I can’t wait to get back down there for another swell!! For now I’m just going to cruise around home for a bit and try score some fun waves. I love this time of year at home!"
Photos: Georde Grigor and Shannon Mackie